Where to find the car color code based on the vehicle make and model

Where is the car colour code usually located?

The location varies from vehicle to vehicle according to make and model, but there are several areas worth checking first. In most cases, the colour code appears on an adhesive or metal plate placed in a protected but accessible area chosen by the manufacturer to display the car's main identification details.

When you do not know where to look, inspect these areas:

• Driver's-side door pillar or door jamb, near the front-door opening;
• Inside edge of the door, especially on the driver's side;
• Engine bay, on a plate attached to the bodywork;
• Underside of the bonnet, on some models;
• Luggage compartment, especially near the spare wheel or side trim;
• Boot area, on the inner body shell or beside the type-approval data;
• Service book or owner's manual, on makes that include an additional sticker.

This initial check has practical value: in many cases, carefully inspecting one of these areas is enough to find the code quickly. If nothing appears, you need to move on to a more targeted search based on the car make, model and, where necessary, year of manufacture.

How to read colour descriptions on the label

When looking for the vehicle paint code, you may encounter different descriptions on the label depending on the manufacturer. The meaning does not change; only the way it is presented does. Recognising the correct wording prevents you from reading the wrong field or confusing the colour code with other technical references on the same plate.

The most common labels are Paint, Paint Code and Color: these are the most direct indications and refer unambiguously to the paint code. External Paint and Exterior Color are more specific, making it clear that the reference concerns the exterior body colour rather than the interior trim. Finally, BC/CC (Basecoat/Clearcoat) is not the colour code; it describes the paint system used — a matt basecoat followed by a clear coat — and must not be used to identify the shade.

Manufacturers may use their own abbreviations or the language of their home market. This is common on Asian vehicles, whose plates may contain non-Latin characters: in such cases, you do not need to interpret the script, but rather identify the alphanumeric code associated with the relevant field. On some Kia models, for example, the code under PAINT may be shown in Korean characters: the safest solution is to contact a dealer rather than attempt an approximate transcription.

The sequence is always the same: locate one of the main labels, find the associated alphanumeric code and use it to identify the paint. Language, symbols and secondary fields are background noise.

How to search for your car make's colour code systematically

People who search at random often find nothing, even when the code is actually present. A logical sequence works better. First check where the plate is normally located for your car make (paint retailers usually have dedicated sections with examples of plates for each make); if it is not there, inspect the other areas in which the plate may be positioned; finally, compare the label you have found with the correct code format. This approach prevents confusion and reduces the risk of misreading numbers or abbreviations that belong to other vehicle data.

1. Check the driver's-side door pillar or door jamb, which are among the most common locations;
2. Inspect the engine bay, looking for adhesive labels or identification plates;
3. Check the luggage compartment or boot, especially around the spare wheel, inner panels or floor;
4. Check the service book if the make uses an additional paper sticker;
5. Identify the make, model and year to determine the most likely location;
6. Read only the correct field, avoiding confusion between the colour code and other technical references.

How to find the car colour code by vehicle make

Every manufacturer adopts its own solutions and may also have changed the plate's location over time on different models of the same make. When looking for the colour code, it is therefore not enough to know that it exists: you also need to know where that manufacturer tends to place it and how that manufacturer writes it. The rules described in the following sections reflect the official identification-plate formats adopted by each automotive group and are consistent with the decoding criteria used by professional automotive paint-mixing systems. See the illustrative image below.

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Volkswagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda and Porsche Group: the boot matters more than the door

With Volkswagen, Audi, Seat, Skoda and Porsche, the first mistake to avoid is starting at the door simply because it is the most obvious place to check. On these makes, the reference is often found in the boot, beneath the floor panel, around the spare wheel or in the rear compartment. In many cases it also appears as a paper sticker in the service book (or maintenance booklet).

The way the code is read varies between makes within the group. On Volkswagen, Audi and Porsche, the code is often preceded by a letter, usually L, which is not part of the actual colour: if the plate reads LD5Q, the part to use is D5Q. This is the format recognised by the VAG Group's paint-mixing databases: searching for the complete string including the L systematically produces no result or an incorrect one. On Seat and Skoda, however, the opposite applies: the initial letter is part of the code and must not be removed. This is one of the most frequent mistakes made by people who know the VW/Audi rules and extend them to these two makes.

A practical example: on a Volkswagen Golf, the boot label shows LC9X. The code to use is C9X (Deep Black Pearl Effect). On a Skoda Octavia showing the same string, however, the correct code is the full LC9X. The visual format is identical, but the rule is the opposite: the make determines how the code must be read.

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Fiat, Lancia, Alfa Romeo and Jeep: avoid assumptions and check several locations

With Fiat, Lancia and Alfa Romeo, the search is less straightforward, but not necessarily more difficult. You need to know that the plate may be found in several places and that all of them should be checked systematically. A typical sequence begins with the bonnet and the inner metalwork of the engine bay; if nothing appears there, move to the tailgate and inspect its inner edge; if the reference is still missing, open the driver's door and check the pillar. On newer models, the plate may in fact have been moved to that area.

Once the plate has been found, reading it is fairly simple: the usable colour code is the numerical part only. If a Punto, 500, Delta or Alfa Giulietta shows 475/A, 475A or 475B, the code to search for is always 475. The final letters are not part of the code used to order the paint.

A direct example: if a 2015 Fiat 500 shows 297/B, the code to enter in spray-paint search tools is 297. Searching for the full 297/B will not return consistent results in most catalogues.

Jeep requires a more flexible approach. The plate's location is less standardised than on other makes and depends heavily on the model and generation. On newer models, the most common position is the front door near the hinges. If, however, the vehicle is a Fiat/Stellantis-group Jeep, it makes sense to follow the logic used for the Italian makes and also check the engine bay, bonnet, boot and driver's-side door pillar.

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Peugeot, Citroën, Renault and Dacia: the door is almost always the starting point, but the reading rules differ

On Peugeot and Citroën, the search is more predictable. In the vast majority of cases, the correct place to check is the driver's-side door pillar, near the lock, close to the hinges or elsewhere in the door jamb or door shut. On older models, it may also be worth checking the engine bay, but the door is almost always the correct starting point.

The Peugeot and Citroën code normally consists of three letters. If a fourth final letter appears on the plate, it should generally be ignored. The classic example is EZRC, which must be read as EZR. This three-letter format is the standard reference in PSA/Stellantis Group paint catalogues: the fourth letter is an internal suffix that does not correspond to any separate shade variant in professional paint-mixing systems.

On Renault and Dacia, the search logic is similar, but the reading rule is different. Here too, you almost always begin with the door pillars, front or rear, with or without an oval identification label. On older models, the engine bay may also be worth checking, but the door remains the first place to inspect. Once the plate has been found, remember that the code consists of three alphanumeric characters preceded by two letters that are not part of the colour. If the plate reads TEB64, the correct code is B64. If you see the prefix BI, you are looking at a reference associated with a two-tone vehicle; the prefixes TE or TN, on the other hand, generally indicate a single colour. Renault applies this prefix convention systematically in its identification-plate coding, and it is reflected consistently in the databases of paint suppliers approved by the manufacturer.

A common real-world mistake is to find TNF45 on a Renault Clio and search for the complete string in paint catalogues, which produces no result. The code to use is F45. The TN prefix is not part of the colour; it indicates a single-colour configuration.

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BMW and Mercedes-Benz: the engine bay takes centre stage again

When dealing with BMW, changing your usual search habits is essential. The most common mistake is to look only around the door, whereas the correct starting point is almost always the engine bay. Frequent locations include the suspension strut towers, the inner wing edges and the engine-bay bulkhead. Once the plate has been found, the code generally consists of three alphanumeric characters, sometimes followed by a slash and a fourth character that must not be used. If the plate reads A35/C, search for A35. The suffix after the slash is an internal BMW code identifying the surface-finish variant (solid, metallic or pearlescent), but it is not a separate entry in paint-matching systems: automotive paint manufacturers index the colour using the three-character code, not the suffix.

With Mercedes-Benz, it is best to work with two priorities. The first check should be the driver's-side door pillar, but do not stop there, because on many models the plate may also be found on the upper radiator support or the front crossmember in the engine bay. This second location is particularly common on older models. Reading the code also requires care: it usually consists of three digits, sometimes four; older references may include the prefix DB, which is not part of the code; and if a sequence such as 744 M appears, only 744 is needed. DB is a historic abbreviation for Daimler-Benz that still appears on some plates fitted to vehicles built before the group was restructured: modern paint catalogues do not index this prefix, so it must always be omitted from the search.

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Ford Europe: where the code is located, how to recognise it and why it is not enough on its own

Ford deserves separate treatment because it creates more uncertainty than most makes, both when locating the colour code and when interpreting it. In many cases, the Ford paint code appears on the door-jamb label, that is, the label on the door jamb, and it is generally a two-character code. On older vehicles in particular, however, the format may differ and the plate's location may change.

On Ford vehicles built before 2009, the plate is often a metal label and may be found in the engine bay, on the front crossmember or around the front passenger door; in this case, the colour code is the second number from the bottom on the left-hand side of the plate. On Ford vehicles built after 2009, the reference is often printed on a paper adhesive label positioned on the front passenger door; here too, the correct code is the second number from the bottom on the left. On Transit and Tourneo models, the specified reference is again an adhesive label on the front passenger door, but on these vehicles the valid code is the third entry from the bottom on the left.

Ford's complexity is not limited to location. The real issue is that the same code may indicate different colours depending on the model and year of manufacture. It is therefore not unusual for dealers and specialists to verify the information using model- and year-specific catalogues, the same resources used by paint manufacturers. This is a structural feature of Ford Europe's colour management: unlike manufacturers that maintain a one-to-one relationship between code and shade, Ford has historically reused the same codes on different models and in different years for different colours. Cross-checking the model and year is therefore not an extra precaution, but a mandatory part of the process.

Consider a practical example. On VerniciSpray, code 62 for a Ford Europe Fiesta is associated with Moondust Silver metallic for the year range 1991-2000. If you own a Fiesta from that period and the plate shows 62, the evidence is consistent. On another Ford model or from another year, however, you must not assume that reading "62" is enough: always check that the code is compatible with that specific Ford.

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Opel and Vauxhall, Toyota, Kia and Hyundai: different makes, very different reading rules

On Opel and Vauxhall, the search is fairly straightforward again: the plate is usually found on the front-door pillar, on the right or left depending on the model. Reading it, however, requires attention because the code may be preceded by an irrelevant lower-case letter. If, for example, the plate shows z 21B, the code to use is simply 21B. The initial lower-case letter is a category prefix used internally by Opel to classify paint specifications; it does not correspond to any indexed field in paint-search systems.

On Toyota, the logic is more consistent. The first place to check is almost always the driver's-side door pillar or one of the front doors on the driver's side, where the reference often appears in the C/TR section. The code normally consists of three alphanumeric characters. C/TR is the standard field on Toyota plates for distinguishing the exterior body colour (C, from Color) from the interior trim code (TR, Trim): anyone searching for the exterior paint must isolate the characters before the slash or separator rather than reading the entire string. If nothing appears on the driver's-side door, a more thorough check of the engine bay is worthwhile. The important exception is the Toyota Aygo, whose code may be found on the rear door near the lock.

On Kia and Hyundai, the plate is usually found on the front door near the handle. Here, the problem is less about location than legibility: on some Kia models, the code under PAINT may appear in Korean characters. In these cases, improvising or guessing the transcription is pointless; the most prudent solution is to contact a dealer.

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Mazda, Nissan and Datsun: when the correct search sequence matters more than any single location

With Mazda, it is best to work by priority. Start with the driver's door, its inner edge or the door jamb, but if the code is not there, do not conclude that the plate is missing. The second genuinely useful location is the firewall, the partition at the rear of the engine bay. The code usually consists of two or three alphanumeric characters.

On Nissan and Datsun, the variation is even greater. Depending on the model, the code may be found in the door jamb, on the door edge, on the door pillar, on the firewall or in the engine bay. Models such as the Sentra, Frontier, Quest and Titan more often place it around the door; others, such as the Maxima, 350Z or Pathfinder, more frequently point to the firewall or engine bay. With Nissan, the correct strategy is therefore not to think of one location, but to follow a precise sequence: driver's door first, then the firewall, then the engine bay. The code normally consists of three alphanumeric characters; if it is followed by a separate letter, that letter must be ignored. If you find KL0 K, the code to search for is KL0. The separate letter after the space identifies the finish category (metallic, solid or pearlescent) in Nissan's internal technical documentation; it is not part of the paint code in third-party paint-matching systems.

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Mitsubishi, MG, Smart and Mini: when a car may have more than one colour

Mitsubishi introduces a concept that becomes even more important on other makes: two-tone paintwork. On many models, the plate clearly identifies two separate colour codes, one for each shade. A code such as D85 A21, for example, indicates two distinct colours, with each three-character group referring to a different shade. If the damage is on a strip, pillar or upper body section, knowing the car's general colour is not enough: you must determine which area is to be painted and use the code assigned to that area.

On MG, the difficulty is different but very real. The colour code on the plate is preceded by the number 5, which is not part of the actual code. In practice, do not search for the complete sequence beginning with 5; use only the alphanumeric portion that follows it. This numerical prefix is a category identifier within the MG plate structure and does not correspond to any field in paint databases: searching for the full string including the 5 produces no result in matching catalogues.

With Smart, the two-tone issue becomes central. The plate is found by opening the rear window and lowering the small rear cover: it is usually under the carpet in that area. Almost all Smart models are two-tone, so the plate normally displays two separate codes, referring respectively to the frame and the body panels. Anyone touching up part of the exterior cell must know whether they are working on the frame or the body panels, because the codes are not interchangeable.

On Mini, the reasoning is very similar, although the colours are distributed differently. The roof, door mirrors and other contrasting components may have a different code from the main bodywork. Finding the body-shell code is therefore not always enough. First determine which part of the car is to be painted; only then should you search for the corresponding paint code. In Mini's official configurators, the roof and body are treated as separate colour elements with separate codes, and this distinction is also reflected in the structure of identification plates on vehicles produced from 2007 onwards.

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Summary: car colour codes by make

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What should you do if you cannot find the colour plate straight away?

If the colour code does not appear during the first inspection, this does not automatically mean that the car has no plate. More often, the plate is simply not where you expected it to be, is dirty, difficult to read or has been covered by subsequent work.

• Use better lighting, because some labels are difficult to see;
• Clean the area gently if the plate is dirty or clouded;
• Check all the main areas according to your vehicle's make and model rather than stopping at the door;
• Do not confuse the colour code with the VIN, tyre-pressure information or type-approval data;
• Consider any previous repainting, which may create further uncertainty about the colour actually present on the bodywork.

This step matters because many errors are caused not by the absence of a code, but by a superficial search. If the label has been removed, has become illegible or the vehicle has undergone major body repairs, stop before purchasing the paint and retrieve the information from more reliable sources.

In these cases, the safest solution is to contact an official dealer or a specialist retailer, providing the make, model, year and, above all, the vehicle identification number (VIN). The VIN makes it possible to retrieve the original colour recorded by the manufacturer and reduces the risk of ordering paint that does not match the vehicle's actual factory specification. Manufacturers maintain historical databases of paint configurations linked to the VIN: this is the most reliable source when the plate is missing or illegible and is also the source used by professionals when they encounter a vehicle with no verifiable colour documentation.

Digital colorimeters and spectrophotometers: last-resort tools for restoration, classic cars and repainted vehicles

When dealing with a classic vehicle, a vehicle preserved in original condition or a car that underwent a complete repaint in the past, the original plate and vehicle identification number (VIN) may no longer be reliable references. The same applies to makes that no longer exist or have left the market, for which OEM databases are often incomplete, outdated or simply inaccessible through ordinary channels. If the colour has been changed from the factory original, or if the manufacturer no longer exists as an active company, ordering paint by OEM code would lead inevitably to an error or a dead end. In these situations, the only scientific solution is to use a digital colorimeter or spectrophotometer. These professional instruments are placed directly against clean bodywork to analyse how light is reflected by the paint actually present. They scan the pigment and compare it with thousands of variants in paint manufacturers' digital databases, identifying the exact formula of the current shade, or the closest compatible one. This approach overcomes missing documentation and post-factory colour changes, allowing an invisible touch-up even on customised colours or paint faded by age. You can learn more in the guide to colorimeters and spectrophotometers.

Two-tone cars: how should you handle touch-ups on the roof and details?

Anyone carrying out a touch-up often makes a mistake that is as common as it is expensive: finding the body colour code and assuming that it also applies to contrasting elements. On two-tone versions — increasingly common across many makes — this is not the case. First, you must establish which part of the car needs touching up and check whether the code on the plate refers to the main body colour or whether a separate shade is used for secondary elements.

This is particularly important when the damage affects an area such as the roof, a door mirror, a surround, a strip or part of a contrasting structural element. Ordering the main body colour in these cases can produce an obviously incorrect result.

On two-tone cars, identifying the code is only the first level of verification. The next step, which is essential in practical terms, is to determine which specific vehicle component the code actually refers to. A code may identify the set of shades used on the vehicle without always specifying unambiguously how they are distributed between the body, roof and details. To obtain a correct match when repainting, you must therefore consult reliable technical sources: paint manufacturers and official dealers are the most suitable parties for associating each shade with the relevant area of the vehicle.

What common mistakes should you avoid during the search?

Most mistakes are caused not by the technical complexity of painting, but by a careless search. People in a hurry tend to use the first number they find; those unfamiliar with plate layouts misinterpret abbreviations; and those who oversimplify confuse the colour name with the actual code. There is also a specific methodological mistake: applying the reading rules of the wrong make. Someone who knows the VAG conventions and uses them on a Renault, removes the initial letter from a Skoda as they would on a Volkswagen, or searches the engine bay of a Peugeot instead of the door pillar is looking in the correct place for the wrong make. All these mistakes have the same practical consequence: they lead to paint that is incorrect or has not been verified accurately enough.

• Assuming that every car has its code in the same place;
• Relying only on the colour name without looking for the technical code;
• Reading unrelated labels found on the bodywork;
• Confusing the colour code with the VIN, tyre-pressure data or other type-approval references;
• Ignoring the make, model and year, which are often decisive when narrowing the search;
• Stopping the inspection too soon after checking only one area of the vehicle;
• Treating irrelevant prefixes or suffixes as though they were part of the colour code;
• Overlooking a two-tone configuration when the vehicle uses more than one shade.

If any doubt about the colour code remains despite these precautions, it is always best to stop before buying. The safest solution is to verify the information with an official dealer or contact the paint manufacturer's support service, providing the make, model, year and code found. An additional check takes only a few minutes but prevents mistakes that could compromise the final result and force you to repeat the work.

Frequently asked questions about finding a car colour code

This section covers special cases and the most common questions that may arise when identifying the original plate or reading alphanumeric codes.